Don't Put a Premium on Premium
- Lucien Etori

Premium comes in different forms, shapes and price points. Levi’s has both Premium and Ultra-Premium jeanswear lines for example. And “Super Premium” has been so over used as to become almost meaningless (or simply synonymous with “retails for over $100”). I am not fooled by this and other transparently self-serving designations. All talk. Obviously.

True Premium denim is felt. It is an inherently tactile construct. It is felt in the texture and weight of the fabric, in indigo so deep as to be fathomless. It is felt in the symmetry of the selvedge, the chain-stitching of the hem. It is felt in the ex-centered back belt loop and rivet concealment. Most importantly it is felt in the complete and utter LACK of pre-treating, pre-fraying, pre-washing, pre-whiskering and pre-fading. True Premium denim is a 1000% natural garment. It is pure and it is blue (True Premium denim can NEVER be a different color incidentally. This is not negotiable). True Premium denim should be fabricated and assembled as close to how it was originally made a little over 100 years ago. No bells. No whistles. And certainly no Elasthane.

Very few companies make True Premium denim anymore. They ALL used to of course. Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler most famously, but smaller companies with strapping, virile names such as Strong Reliable, Fitwell, Headlight, The Boss and Crown Overall did as well. Their jeans/overalls/dungarees were unfailingly tough, basic and blue (not to mention “union-made” as the majority of labels proudly pointed out). They had to be. Working in an early 20 th century mine, for one, was really quite detestable, almost suicidal work and dainty/prone-to-rip workwear was not an option. Pissed off miners could really affect your bottom-line back then.

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